Ring of Beara | Healy Pass

On Friday, March 15, we hopped in the car and drove around the Ring of Beara. The Ring of Beara or Beara Peninsula has two mountain ranges: the Caha Mountains and the Slieve Miskish Mountains.

We explored the County Kerry side and took the Healy Pass which was cut during the Great Famine as a poor relief public works project. The goal was to give Irish folk an easier route through the mountains.

A note about driving in Ireland: You are driving on the left side of the road, and on the other side of the car (passenger and driver’s seat are reversed), so go the speed you are comfortable in (most area signs say to go 100 km/h, so 60+ mph). If cars want to pass you, they will. These are windy, dangerous, narrow roads. Lots of tourist buses pass through here, and you are cramped and have to sometimes pull off to the side for bigger cars. If you are renting a car, I recommend renting a small car so you can navigate the roads better and feel safe.

Ring of Beara and Healy Pass

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Kenmare | Killarney National Park

The past three days have been a whirlwind of driving and exploration—I am just finding time to sit down and write again. Today, we arrived in Fanore, a small village in County Clare on the west coast of Ireland. After a long drive and dinner at a nearby pub, we are back in our Airbnb lounging in the cozy living room. Now, I have time to write about Kenmare!

Kenmare
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Kenmare is a beautiful village in the south of County Kerry. It is located at the head of Kenmare Bay where the Roughty River flows into the sea. It is also at the junction of the Iveragh Peninsula and the Beara Peninsula. It was a great spot to pick because it was not only gorgeous and just what we wanted in a small Irish town, but it was also centrally located and right near the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara, our gateways into the Irish countryside the past few days.

On Friday, we spent most of the day walking around town, poking in and out of the shops and admiring the architecture. Walking around Kenmare is simple: there are three main streets and they form a triangle at the center of town (Main Street). Naturally, there is a lot of rich history. The town has ancient roots—one of the largest stone circles in the southwest of Ireland is located there going back to the Bronze Age when it was constructed (2,200-500 B.C.). It was fun to walk around, snap some photos, and try some of the restaurants. A few we recommend is the Lorge Chocolatier (their hot chocolate is delicious), PF McCarthy’s (great pub food), and Maison Gourmet (great breakfast cafe)!

 

Killarney National Park

On Saturday, St. Patrick’s Day, we stopped for takeaway breakfast and made our way to Killarney National Park for a day of exploration. We got to drive a little on the Ring of Kerry and were in awe of how beautiful it was. We’ve never seen views like this before!

These two photos are from Ladies View on the Ring of Kerry in Killarney:

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We continued to drive on the Ring of Kerry and throughout Killarney National Park (which is over 25,000 acres—so we didn’t explore it all!) and stopped at the Torc Waterfall. The woods are covered in green moss—again, something we haven’t seen before, and the waterfall is beautiful.

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Our last stop on the tour was Muckross House, a 19th-century mansion set among the mountains in Killarney. It stands close to the shore of Muckross Lake, one of Killarney’s three lakes, and was the home of Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife, Mary Balfour Herbert. In 1861, Queen Victoria visited the house and stayed for two nights.

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We were able to take a 45-minute guided tour of the house, but we were not allowed to take photos. Let’s just say that the house is adorned with deer antlers (two hunting families lived here) and an eclectic mix of bric-a-brac. We highly suggest visiting Muckross and taking a tour—it’s a gorgeous Victorian home and the staff is super kind!

We then drove back to Kenmare for an authentic St. Patrick’s Day pub experience. Throughout the day, we noticed that people were wearing sprigs of shamrock on their left breast to celebrate the holiday. A waiter at the pub told us many Irish folks celebrate St. Patrick’s Day as a religious holiday, kind of like how Americans celebrate Christmas. A lot of the razzmatazz that you see throughout Ireland is simply to appease tourists. We took the countryside route and ordered a Guinness, ate some traditional Irish meals (not corned beef or cabbage), and listened to some Irish music in a local pub!

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Sláinte!

 

Dublin | Day Three

We woke up a little later than usual on Wednesday, March 14, and we woke up to a lot of rain. Bummed that it was raining on our last full day in Dublin, we turned to look at the positives. We: 1) Got to experience real “Ireland weather” (as one of the baristas said to us at our breakfast spot); and 2) We had pretty good weather the first two days we were here! So, we added more layers and we were out the door!

Our first stop was St. Patrick’s Cathedral. With our Airbnb across the street, we decided to tour the inside on our last day. Luckily, the line wasn’t too long and we made it inside in record time, happy to be out of the rain! It is said that dating back to 450, Saint Patrick baptized people into Christianity in a well located in St. Patrick’s Park. The cathedral itself is beautiful and intricate—different from other cathedrals we have seen. We walked in and were swept away by its history and art. I was especially excited to see the memorial and burial site of Jonathan Swift, Dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and author of “Gulliver’s Travels.”

 

After the tour, we had brunch at Legit Coffee Co.—a place we definitely recommend. We enjoyed delicious hot beverages (I appreciated its variety of non-dairy alternatives for lattes) and a spread of eggs and toast and omelets. To avoid the rain (and listening to our tired bodies), we headed back to the Airbnb to dry off and get ready for our second stop of the day: Guinness Storehouse tour!

We made our way through the rainy streets of Dublin (which were actually beautiful and enjoyable!) and found ourselves at the Guinness Storehouse. This tour was definitely a little more commercial. You walked into the building (shaped like a giant pint glass) and start at the bottom in a self-guided tour. This is definitely a great way to spend half of your day (especially if it is rainy). There was no time limit and we enjoyed learning about the history of Guinness. Here are a few facts: Arthur Guinness signed a lease at the storehouse for 9,000 years—quite the risk taker. He also had 21 children, and 11 died. I also kind of like Guinness?! With your ticket, you get a free pint at the very top, the Gravity Bar, that overlooks the entire city of Dublin. It was very foggy and rainy, and the number of people in the bar made it a little steamy, so we weren’t able to see as much, but it was an awesome experience!

 

After the tour, we walked back to our Airbnb (in the rain…towards the wind! YAY!) and took a much-needed break. We then got ready for our dinner adventure—our first speakeasy, the Vintage Cocktail Club! All I can say is this was one of the coolest dining experiences of our life! We walked up to a secret front door, rang the bell, and we were swept upstairs and found ourselves in a gorgeous club with cushioned seats and fireplaces and tables. We sat in the bar area at a cozy table and had drinks, dinner, and dessert. It was such a great way to end the evening and our trip to Dublin!

 

Today, we drive (yes—we’re driving!) to Kenmare for our next installment. Dublin: You were amazing. See you again soon!

Dublin | Day Two

On Tuesday, March 13, we woke up to sunny skies and a busy day ahead of us. Note: Ireland is chilly (all the time!). Even in the summer, it doesn’t get past 67-68 degrees. Make sure you wear layers so that you can take them off/put them back on throughout the day. I always wore a long sleeve, fleece, and raincoat with jeans, leggings, boots and warm socks!

We made our way over to Trinity College (and stopped at Queen of Tarts for a couple of scones…Ian’s third scone of the trip!) to view the Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library. A few things: We purchased our tickets for the Book of Kells online, which made it easy to pass through. We also weren’t allowed to take photos inside the exhibit, but it was surreal and we definitely recommend it.

Now. To the Trinity College Library. The library itself is the largest library in Ireland. It began in 1592. In 1661, Henry James presented it with the Book of Kells, its most famous manuscript. The Long Room, a 213-foot chamber within the library was built between 1712 and 1732 and houses 200,000 of the library’s oldest books. The room is also lined with marble busts of great philosophers, writers, and people who supported Trinity.

We both stood in awe in this room. I did three walk-throughs. One with my camera, the other two because I just couldn’t get enough of the place. As a couple of English nerds, we really enjoyed spending our time here. It was absolutely beautiful and a must-see if you are to visit Dublin.

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We explored the campus a little bit and then walked to O’Connell Street. O’Connell Street is Dublin’s grandest street that starts from the O’Connell Bridge through north Dublin. You start at the Trinity side of town and make your way up, ending at the Garden of Remembrance, a park honoring the victims of the 1916 uprising. What’s cool about this street is that you can see some cool statues and monuments, like the Daniel O’Connell monument (for whom the street is named; he was known as the “Liberator” for demanding Irish Catholic rights in British Parliament). You can also see Abbey Theatre, where nationalists (like Yeats) staged plays, the General Post Office, and more. We really enjoyed the walk, especially taking a rest in the Garden of Remembrance: a peaceful spot to relax and stretch after a long walk.

We then turned around and made our way to Ha’Penny Bridge, named for the halfpence toll that people used to pay to cross it. We took the pedestrian-only bridge and made our way to Temple Bar Square where we enjoyed the sights.

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After lunch, we walked over to Dublin Castle and bought tickets for a self-guided tour.  Dublin Castle was the seat of Irish rule for over 700 years; it is located where the rivers Liffey and Poddle came together, making a black pool (dubh linn in Irish). Dublin Castle was home to the viceroy who implemented the will of the British royalty. It was our first time visiting a castle; we loved being able to spend our time in each room and enjoy the atmosphere and take in the history. The tour ended with a look at the foundations of the Norman tower and the remains of the 13th-century town wall. There was another option for a guided tour, which takes you inside the chapel and into some other rooms as well.

 

After the castle tour, we walked over to St. Stephen’s Green to check out the park and all of the cool monuments there. We learned that it used to be a place with gory public executions in medieval times. Now, it’s a grassy refuge for Dubliners. The three main monuments and statues I wanted to check out were the Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, and the WB Yeats statue. I was a little disappointed in Joyce, but it was a great park and fun to see people relaxing on benches and taking in the greenery.

 

After our walk through St. Stephen’s, we walked through Grafton Street again to find some dinner—success! We had some delicious Italian food at Milano. We wanted to have dessert and some drinks (and it started to rain) so we came across a bar, Davy Byrnes, where we enjoyed an Irish coffee (and a few beers!) and watched the game (that’s Irish talk for soccer). Tired, we made our way back to our Airbnb and fell into our bed after a long, fun day in Dublin!